Nestled in the serene village of Aralaguppe in the Tiptur taluk of Karnataka’s Tumkur district, the Chennakeshava Temple is a splendid example of Hoysala architecture. Built around 1250 CE during the reign of King Vira Somesvara, this masterpiece stands as a testament to the artistic and cultural zenith achieved during the Hoysala period.
Location and Accessibility
Aralaguppe lies about 65 km from Tumkur city and 140 km from Bangalore, making it a perfect day trip for history enthusiasts and architecture admirers.
Temple Architecture and Layout
The Chennakeshava Temple is an Ekakuta or single-cell structure, built facing east on a jagati (raised platform) designed for pradakshina (circumambulation). The platform, about 4 feet high, follows the temple’s contours, transitioning from a square front to a zig-zag pattern around the sanctum, shaped like a 16-pointed star.
While much of the platform’s ornamentation has faded, remnants of sculpted elephants along the star points provide a glimpse into the intricate detailing of the era.
Inside the Temple
The entrance to the temple leads into a Navaranga (hall) comprising nine squares. A unique feature here is the extended ankana (square) at the entrance, complete with stone benches and pierced windows (jali) that allow natural light to filter in.
The lathe-turned pillars in the Navaranga are adorned with beadwork, featuring two bell-shaped, 16-fluted pillars with bracket figures of musicians. The ceiling panels are dome-shaped with exquisite carvings that showcase various patterns.
Connecting the Navaranga to the sanctum is the antarala (vestibule), guarded by two dwarapalas and adorned with simple yet elegant perforated door jambs.
The Sanctum and Idol
The sanctum is dedicated to Chennakeshava, a form of Vishnu, depicted standing on a garuda pedestal flanked by his consorts. The torana (arch) of the idol features miniature carvings of Vishnu’s ten avatars. Interestingly, the idol currently housed here is believed to be a replica, as the original—damaged during invasions—resides in the Navaranga. The original six-foot Kesava statue bears visible damage, including broken hands and nose.
Notable Features
- Narasimha Temple: Attached to the south wall of the Chennakeshava Temple is a smaller shrine dedicated to Ugra Narasimha. This structure partially conceals the sculptures on the original temple’s southern wall, which can only be viewed from inside the Narasimha sanctum.
- Friezes and Sculptures: The external walls feature a fascinating arrangement of friezes. From bottom to top, these include:
- Elephants
- Horsemen with swords and lances (interspersed with camels and drums)
- Creeper scrolls
- Mythological depictions from the Ramayana and Bhagavata
- Rows of yakshas seated between pilasters
- Sculptured panels of dancers, musicians, and warriors
The basement friezes surrounding the Navaranga and sanctum differ slightly, with an additional row featuring makaras (mythical creatures) and hamsas (swans).
- Tower (Shikhara): The temple’s star-shaped tower has four tiers with plain turrets but lacks the usual kalasha (finial).
Signatures of Artistry
The temple boasts nearly 90 large sculptures, primarily depicting Vishnu in various forms, along with Lakshmi as the most common female deity. Several sculptures bear the signatures of their creators, with Honoja being the most frequently mentioned artist. His full name appears on 15 sculptures, while his signature “Ho” is etched on 12 others.
Preserving a Legacy
The Chennakeshava Temple at Aralaguppe is more than just a structure; it is a repository of history, art, and devotion. Despite damages over centuries, its intricate carvings, architectural marvels, and spiritual essence continue to captivate visitors.
Whether you’re an admirer of ancient architecture or a seeker of serene historical spots, the Chennakeshava Temple offers a profound journey into Karnataka’s Hoysala heritage. Plan your visit to Aralaguppe and immerse yourself in the timeless artistry of this magnificent temple.
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